Sound Acoustic Solutions
 

Installation Instructions - SilentWrap

Download our MVL Installation Guide here. 

For optimum performance, SilentWrap needs to be mechanically fastened to the studs or joists prior to the installation of drywall.  It works best when it is slightly limp and has room to resonate.  All seams should be caulked with acoustical caulk and sealed with seam tape.  Sound will leak, much like water.  All seams and perforations need to be airtight to be “sound-tight”.

 Materials for SilentWrap Installation 

  • Fasteners for Wood Stud Assemblies
    • Staples and caps (power cap stapler preferred for larger areas)
      • Bostitch 5/16” crown, 1/2” leg staples
      • Bostitch Caps 1”
    • 1” drywall screws with 1” fender washer or
    • 1” roofing cap nails with 1” cap or
  • Fasteners for Steel Stud Assemblies
    • 1” Fine thread drywall screws with 1” fender washers or
    • Self drilling wafer head screws with 1” fender washers
  • Seam Tape
  • Acoustical Caulk

 Tools for SilentWrap Installation

  • Bostitch T6-8 Crown Stapler, or hammer &/or drill for fasteners
  • Tape measure
  • Utility knife
  • Straight edge or T-square
  • Ladder or scaffolding

 Before you start… 

  • Installing SilentWrap on walls or ceilings requires 2 people
  • Fiberglass or Mineral Fiber insulation should be installed in the stud cavity
  • Install the SilentWrap on side of the wall partition where the noise source is (i.e. home theater).  This is the “noisy” side of the wall partition.
  • When possible, seams should be tightly butted and centered vertically on studs.  When seams occur in stud cavities overlap the SilentWrap by 2”, caulk with acoustical caulk, and tape with seam tape.
  • If you are installing in-wall speakers please see Addendum 1.
  • Proper Installation around electrical boxes and any other barrier penetrations is critical.  Any air leak penetrations will compromise total barrier performance.  See below.

Installing SilentWrap

1. Determine the height of the wall.

2. Using your straight edge or T-square cut a sheet of SilentWrap that is ½” less than your wall height.  (this will allow for a ¼” gap around the wall perimeter when the SilentWrap installation is complete)

3. Attach the sheet of SilentWrap to the wall header with at least 6 fasteners.  Make sure the sheet is square and leave a ¼” gap between the top of the SilentWrap and the ceiling.  It may be helpful to have a ladder or scaffold support the weight of the SilentWrap while fastening.

4. Working your way from the top down, fasten the SilentWrap on all studs every 24”. Do not pull the SilentWrap taut when attaching – simply allow it to flex slightly.

5. Fasten the SilentWrap to the floor plate.  There should be a ¼” gap between the SilentWrap and the floor.

6. Cut around electrical boxes, switches, or any other items that need to penetrate through the SilentWrap.  These will need to be sealed airtight later with flexible sealant.

7. Work your way around the room installing adjacent sheets of SilentWrap.  As much as possible, seams should be tightly butted together on the studs/joists. 

8. Verify all fasteners are as flush to the SilentWrap as possible to avoid dimpling of the drywall.

 Seaming & Sealing

9.  Place small bead of acoustical caulk between vertical seams of SilentWrap on the studs.

10. Tape over the acoustical caulked seam using seam tape.

11. Seal all cutouts for electrical boxes and other penetrations with acoustical caulk.  See addendum 2 below.

12. Tape over the acoustical caulked penetrations with seam tape.

13. Seal the entire wall perimeter with acoustical caulk.  This will make the SilentWrap covered wall partition “sound tight”.  No seam tape is required.  Please note: acoustical caulk must be used.  Standard construction caulk is not resilient enough.

Drywall Installation

 14. Install drywall in typical fashion, except leave a ¼” gap around the perimeter of the drywall.  It is important that the drywall does not touch an adjacent wall, ceiling, or floor.  This will transmit sound through the structure.

15. Seal all cutouts for electrical boxes and other penetrations with acoustical caulk.

16. Seal the entire drywall perimeter gap with acoustical caulk.

17. Tape and mud the drywall seams in typical fashion.

 

Addendum 1 – In Wall Speaker Installation

  •  When installing in-wall speakers it is important to install the SilentWrap without cutting into it (like with an electrical box).  Cutting SilentWrap around a speaker will allow the speaker itself to bypass the barrier and transmit sound into the wall cavity behind the SilentWrap.  This significantly degrades wall (or ceiling) barrier performance
  • In the stud cavity where the speaker is going to be installed, install ‘extra’ SilentWrap loosely between the studs to create a SilentWrap pocket behind the speaker.  This pocket should be deep enough that the speaker does not touch the SilentWrap, but not so deep that the SilentWrap touches the other side of the partition.  The pocket should run the entire vertical span of the stud cavity so that seams are on the studs
  • Fill the “pocket” with Fiberglass or Mineral wool insulation
  • Seal and tape the SilentWrap on the studs

 Addendum 2 – SilentWrap around Electrical Boxes and Cutouts

  • For best performance, seal all electrical boxes, switches, and penetrations.  Airtight is the only way to make sure leaks are sound-tight
  • Electrical boxes should be completely sealed with fire rated SilentPutty Pads [AC-SP77] or buttered with Acoustical Caulk, such as OSI Acoustical Sound Sealant [AC-AC28] 
  • All openings around penetrations, and through the back of electrical boxes should be sealed

 

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